Africa oh Africa. Where do I begin and how did it ever end. Im sitting here in the Juggle Juice Bar in Amsterdam having a cold beer and reminiscing. But as my new adventure begins I cant help thinking about the one I have just finished. I will begin with the end. In the last week I have been with the Masai just at the base of Mount Meru and in Arusha celebrating. The Masai were fantastic. i went walking in the bush with them. Shot arrows with them. And threw spears. While most Masai are polygamist, only half this family was. They were revolutionaries on the front of Masai education. Preaching against the commonly practices female circumcision, spreading Christianity, and educating farmers about caring for the land. After plenty of Ogoro (the Masai snorting tobacco that is used constantly) they took me into one of their dung/mud huts for a ceremony. I was going through the procedure of becoming a warrior. The great grandma of 98 set a fire in-between three rocks and then placed a piece of metal in the coals. After more Ogoro it was time. When the Masai are anywhere from 8-18 they become warriors. A process that is finalized when you are branded. They usually do it on the cheeks but I chose my fore arms. After about 30 minutes of heating up in the red coals grandma took the piece of metal and held out my arms. Before I knew it I could smell burning flesh. I could hear the skin boiling. Then the other arm. The entire time I could not blink or show pain or I would be useless. Now I am the MZungu Cache Unguelelo Rasta Masai qua Arusha. Crazy, relaxed, white Masai. The rings will stay with me forever. They are healing now but will soon be black circles. And although im not really a Masai all the Masai that have seen my marks are impressed and curious to know what I did to receive such an honor. Well it may be a honor, but so was this trip all together. And although the ring hurt now. Leaving Africa does as well. And like the rings, the memories will last forever. Out of Africa and in Europe. Loving it.
Keep it real Readers. Love you.
- Chad
2.28.2011
2.23.2011
When the going gets tough
Alright guys Im back. Kenya is superb and for the first time I feel at home on the trip. I took a shower for the first time in a week and the stunning tan i thought I had was in fact dirt. I shaved, but kept the mustache (and it looks quite fashionable). Clean clothes feel great and although my body is torn from the week of sitting in a hot car driving on roads that are rivers in rainy season Im getting used to not bumping around constantly. The safari was amazing. It started off at an the all time high of getting to see Hippos grazing in the fields and not in the water. An hour later we watched as four lions slept high in the branches of a tree. The Antelope and Gazelle are everywhere but they are only bait. Their magnificence lays within the fight they put up to avoid being eaten. The drive is not the most satisfying. The bumpy roads destroy your stomach and without any leg room you easily get cramped up. I put up photos of many of the animals we saw but because they come out of nowhere and sometimes disappear just as quickly I only have memories of some scenes. At each and every camp a Masai warrior with poison arrows guarded our tents, which was nice but at 2am when you hop out to take a piss you don't notice he's watching you until its too late. It astonishes me that Tanzania and Kenya use the Serengeti animals to bring in their tourism but yet outside the park they abuse them. Today I saw two dead dogs and a Masai whipping a donkey in the face and laughing but when your in the park any gesture towards the animals other than a photo results in a horrific fine. Tomorrow I head back to Arusha and after a couple days in in Europe. I am ecstatic to see my cousin Matt, eat with him, drink, and begin my new adventure. Im almost out of Africa. There was no wifi in the last hotel either and Im sorry it took this long to upload my Summit Photo.
- Chad
- Chad
Location:Nairobi, Kenya
2.16.2011
The Worst Day Known to Man
This is how the events unfolded.
Today I woke up. Took my clothes to the hotels laundry mat and had breakfast. The hotel had changed, new people from new countries. I went for a walk down town. Now everyone in Tanzania tells me that Arusha is more dangerous than Moshi but today changed that idea. After passing a bus station two locals followed me. As usual they attempted to sell me bracelets. And as usual I kindly asked them off. They did not leave, instead they continued to walk smoking weed and occasionally talking on the phone. This is usual. But a military cop whipping out of a taxi and handcuffing you is not. I was cuffed and stuffed in the back of a taxi that the soldier had hijacked. While the other two sellers were calm, my hard was beating rapidly. They had called him and were expecting a chip of the amount paid.He yelled, cursed, and hit the gray leather on the seat. "10 years" he kept yelling. I watched the movie about the American who spent time in the Turkish prison and had to escape and with the Congo to the west of me and the Indian ocean to the east I noticed I didnt have a lot of choices. I bribed him. What started as 2000 US turned into an iPod shuffle, Dr. Dre beats, and 400$. He took me to every ATM that accepted Visa. And although I tried to get 2000$ it wouldn't let me. My daily limit was 500. After an hour of going ATM to ATM and being watched so I couldnt run we came to a conclusion. I gave him my fake ID for drinking that a colleague gave me and I think that saved my life. I told him I needed it to get a new passport and that I will call him to pay the rest for the ID. He thinks my name is Dan and that Im traveling to Arusha. Dan you saved my life, and Im serious. But I have to be careful. The police will arrest a white man for anything here just to get money. Today Im happy to be alive in a hotel instead of prison in Tanzania. Right now Im drinking a couple cold ones, packing, and getting ready to hop the country to Kenya. Although rebels are moving into Kenya I have a feeling I will have less problems. I miss the USA.
Today I woke up. Took my clothes to the hotels laundry mat and had breakfast. The hotel had changed, new people from new countries. I went for a walk down town. Now everyone in Tanzania tells me that Arusha is more dangerous than Moshi but today changed that idea. After passing a bus station two locals followed me. As usual they attempted to sell me bracelets. And as usual I kindly asked them off. They did not leave, instead they continued to walk smoking weed and occasionally talking on the phone. This is usual. But a military cop whipping out of a taxi and handcuffing you is not. I was cuffed and stuffed in the back of a taxi that the soldier had hijacked. While the other two sellers were calm, my hard was beating rapidly. They had called him and were expecting a chip of the amount paid.He yelled, cursed, and hit the gray leather on the seat. "10 years" he kept yelling. I watched the movie about the American who spent time in the Turkish prison and had to escape and with the Congo to the west of me and the Indian ocean to the east I noticed I didnt have a lot of choices. I bribed him. What started as 2000 US turned into an iPod shuffle, Dr. Dre beats, and 400$. He took me to every ATM that accepted Visa. And although I tried to get 2000$ it wouldn't let me. My daily limit was 500. After an hour of going ATM to ATM and being watched so I couldnt run we came to a conclusion. I gave him my fake ID for drinking that a colleague gave me and I think that saved my life. I told him I needed it to get a new passport and that I will call him to pay the rest for the ID. He thinks my name is Dan and that Im traveling to Arusha. Dan you saved my life, and Im serious. But I have to be careful. The police will arrest a white man for anything here just to get money. Today Im happy to be alive in a hotel instead of prison in Tanzania. Right now Im drinking a couple cold ones, packing, and getting ready to hop the country to Kenya. Although rebels are moving into Kenya I have a feeling I will have less problems. I miss the USA.
Kilimanaro 5. Summit
We arrived at Barafu (snow) hut around 1:30. The hike had been long. Over a steep ridge, down into a valley, over another steep ridge, and finally up a 4 km ascent into the ice and wind. We ate a little. My handful of almonds and Protein bar were going to have to suffice if I wanted to summit. The weather was getting worse be the minute and it was soon obvious that we had to go. So my guide and I began the 6km to the summit. The 1,300 meter climb was grueling. Each step, a conscious effort, and each breath seemingly impossible to acquire. The snow was blanketing our packs an although my blond facial hair is unnoticeable to even a keen eye, the ice that had accumulated left me a 17 year old Shawn Connery. Stella point (the rim of the crater) was a well deserved resting spot. What others did in 11 hours I had to do in 6. The weather continued to worsen. Honest, my guide, was worn out. The wind had left him dehydrated and at that elevation he didnt think he would make it. I continued alone. Trudging through the snow, step by step, along to crater. Step by step. It took forever. What really was fifteen minutes seemed to be an hour. And although it was a short, gradual climb from Stella to the actual summit the wind and snow covered the view and left me only seeing the uphill. What I thought was a person descending became the post. Boards rigged together to announce your arrival to the roof of Africa. A porter and and middle aged lady to the picture for me before I bolted back down to the camp. I woke up the next morning to find a foot of snow on my tent. We made the right decision to ascend the day before.
I am so sorry for lack of pictures. They are coming I just have to find a place that has computers that can take images from cameras. Remember I am in Aftrica. And if there was wifi to put them up from my ipad I would. Love you all. Thanks for reading.
I am so sorry for lack of pictures. They are coming I just have to find a place that has computers that can take images from cameras. Remember I am in Aftrica. And if there was wifi to put them up from my ipad I would. Love you all. Thanks for reading.
2.15.2011
Kilimanjaro 4. Baranco Cave
Today is unexplainable, and like most unexplainable things Im going to try to narrate the last few hours. I woke up in the dark valley of Shira Cave. The altitude 3767 meters. The temperature freezing. So far my ascent to the roof of Africa has been easier than camping with NOLS in the Wind River Wilderness, but the one thing I miss is the tent at night. The tent is a place to go when its dark or frigid and you want to relax. This is only applicable to camping with friends though. The other bodies up and against you act as insulation or company. But with no body in my tent it is dreary. We left at 8:15 today. Gradually hiking up Shiras Valley to 4500 meters altitude. There I caught my first glimpse of Lava Tower. The tower itself is surreal. It sits in a flat valley separated from the mountain by a deep, and rocky gorge. The boulders that conjoin to create this magnanimous structure are abstract. When Kilimanjaro erupted a slow leak of lava rose trapping all flying debris in its hot viscous body. We drank water and prepared to climb. The lava tower is slightly higher that the top of Meru but because I was acclimated the challenge become infantile. The ice covered ledges reminded me of the cliffs in the pass to Bridger Bowl, however, this ice stays all year long. Down, then into a river bed on the way to Baranco cave. This moorland/tundra contains thousands of different fauna. Cactus that grow 30 feet high. Lichen that grows red, yellow, and green. And to think that tomorrow it will be all gone The change of 100 meters could me a new environment. I was the first to camp again. Its nice because while others complain about not being able to do anything entertaining, I know that what we are doing is climbing a mountain and if Im not writing, sleeping, or eating then Im wasting time and Energy.
Tomorrow I will post the last day and summit
Tomorrow I will post the last day and summit
Kilimajaro 3. Shira to Baranco
Sunday, Feb 13, 2011
I summit tomorrow. Im sitting here in my tent in the morning at Shira hut listening to the wind and feeling the cold. Kilimanjaro is intriguing. The higher I go the worse my hand writing becomes. Soon I will throw on a second pair of socks and have Udi porridge. I have been marginally beating the porters. But the guides are used to slow climbers and are not always in shape. I hope I still do fine today.
I summit tomorrow. Im sitting here in my tent in the morning at Shira hut listening to the wind and feeling the cold. Kilimanjaro is intriguing. The higher I go the worse my hand writing becomes. Soon I will throw on a second pair of socks and have Udi porridge. I have been marginally beating the porters. But the guides are used to slow climbers and are not always in shape. I hope I still do fine today.
Kilimanjaro 2. Machame to Shira Cave
All uphill today. Huge climb. My body knows its over 12,000 feet and its still relaxed. People are starting to take altitude medicine but I have decided not to. I want to be able to claim this mountain because of my own strength and without any help. I arrived at Shira cave today. Its dark, cold, and I think a storm is moving in. My group is great. Metoro, which in Swahili means torture, can only say "Hello!" and "Here!". He is hilarious. My cook is a Rasta, so if he spent his time wisely when having the "muchies" he should be a good chef. I arrived early again today. Shira was empty. They are starting to call me MZungu Kacha, crazy white man.
Kilimajaro 1. Gate to Machame gate to Machame hut
Friday, Feb 11 2011
Today was easy. It was a walk through the jungle on a marked road for the most part. I am the first person here. It surprises me how many people try to be who they are not. I used to lie about trivial things and try to keep attention on me by telling outlandish stories. I am only 17 years old but I know who I am now. And for the first time in my life I dont think I like to talk as much. I can hear the mountain. I can hear the other climbers coming up from the valley below. I can listen, and observe without interruption.
Today was easy. It was a walk through the jungle on a marked road for the most part. I am the first person here. It surprises me how many people try to be who they are not. I used to lie about trivial things and try to keep attention on me by telling outlandish stories. I am only 17 years old but I know who I am now. And for the first time in my life I dont think I like to talk as much. I can hear the mountain. I can hear the other climbers coming up from the valley below. I can listen, and observe without interruption.
Kilimanjaro Entries
All right everyone I am down from the mountain a day early and have time to blog. I have five entries (all numbered) to post. I hope you enjoy them. Tanzania is treating me superb thanks for all the comments.
2.09.2011
This is life
Hey guys, sorry for the tone of the last blog. After reading some Hemingway I decided to play with my writing style. So overall the mountain was great and all is well. Due to some flash storms I only got to spend a little time with the kids today and I'll put pictures up by tomorrow. The food was much better on the mountain than it is here and I'm ecstatic about leaving for Kilimanjaro. It's not that I want to leave the kids. I want to come back. But now it's time to continue my journey. Let's just say that after Meru, I have peak fever.
Today Baracka took the back of Loveness's light up Rolling Stones pin. When I confronted Baracka he gave me the back. When I asked for the battery he didn't know what I was talking about. I know what it was because I saw a Rolling Stones concert in second grade. But kids who are older than I was don't know who the Stones are and have not seen a concert.
So heres the plan. Kilimanjaro. Kenya. Europe. The Masai of Kenya are going to be great. Not only to I get to learn the culture of such a unique African tribe but I receive free protection from the rebels moving across the borders. Remember I am with some of the bravest hunters in the world.
So now, in rain gear feeling a little feverish for some reason, and reading the news from wifi I bid you a good day. No matter what you do when your happy whether it be singing in the car to The Boss, having a beer, or spending time with family, do it a little extra today for those who are not fortunate enough to enjoy the little things.
- Chad
Today Baracka took the back of Loveness's light up Rolling Stones pin. When I confronted Baracka he gave me the back. When I asked for the battery he didn't know what I was talking about. I know what it was because I saw a Rolling Stones concert in second grade. But kids who are older than I was don't know who the Stones are and have not seen a concert.
So heres the plan. Kilimanjaro. Kenya. Europe. The Masai of Kenya are going to be great. Not only to I get to learn the culture of such a unique African tribe but I receive free protection from the rebels moving across the borders. Remember I am with some of the bravest hunters in the world.
So now, in rain gear feeling a little feverish for some reason, and reading the news from wifi I bid you a good day. No matter what you do when your happy whether it be singing in the car to The Boss, having a beer, or spending time with family, do it a little extra today for those who are not fortunate enough to enjoy the little things.
- Chad
2.08.2011
Poa Kechize Comendeeze (Cool like a crazy banana)
They had called to tell the Kilmaros what time they were arriving to pick me up. But I wasn't told. I woke up early. Packed the essentials fast. The "essentials" are engraved in my memory from countless backpacking trips. Before I knew it, they were here.
We arrived at the Oasis Hotel to pick up the other two backpackers but an injury to the foot left Stephan unable to hike. His girlfriend Stephanie hiked Meru for the two of them.Stephanie and I took the bus ride to the park entrance, waited as the guards and guides conversed, then continued up the rocky stretch toward the mountain.
Guidion, our guide, was fantastic. Besides his alcoholism he was to best guide around. His distinct voice, forged from the heat and smoke of Portsman cigarettes, was reassuring.
The first day was pointless. A walk on a road for 12km has never felt longer. The safari cars whizzed by. So to put it simply it was an unnecessary walk to the base of the mountain.
Although I didnt enjoy the trail I enjoyed the scenery. Sometimes you have to enjoy the journey instead of thinking about the destination. We saw monkey, we saw giraffes, we saw water buffalo, and a plethora of other animals. And whether it was truly for protection or just to make the hikers pay more we had an armed guard.
Compared to roughing it in the Wind Wilderness Wyoming this was luxury. I arrived in the Maricamba camp early. Consisting of three hiker bunk houses containing 20 4 person rooms each it was a Ritz Carlton. The food was good. The beds were comfortable. And the beers were cold.
This was the beginning of my adventures with Org an Gerald.
- Chad
We arrived at the Oasis Hotel to pick up the other two backpackers but an injury to the foot left Stephan unable to hike. His girlfriend Stephanie hiked Meru for the two of them.Stephanie and I took the bus ride to the park entrance, waited as the guards and guides conversed, then continued up the rocky stretch toward the mountain.
Guidion, our guide, was fantastic. Besides his alcoholism he was to best guide around. His distinct voice, forged from the heat and smoke of Portsman cigarettes, was reassuring.
The first day was pointless. A walk on a road for 12km has never felt longer. The safari cars whizzed by. So to put it simply it was an unnecessary walk to the base of the mountain.
Although I didnt enjoy the trail I enjoyed the scenery. Sometimes you have to enjoy the journey instead of thinking about the destination. We saw monkey, we saw giraffes, we saw water buffalo, and a plethora of other animals. And whether it was truly for protection or just to make the hikers pay more we had an armed guard.
Compared to roughing it in the Wind Wilderness Wyoming this was luxury. I arrived in the Maricamba camp early. Consisting of three hiker bunk houses containing 20 4 person rooms each it was a Ritz Carlton. The food was good. The beds were comfortable. And the beers were cold.
This was the beginning of my adventures with Org an Gerald.
- Chad
Saddle Hut
We left early. After eating a three course dinner I passed out. After a three course breakfast I wanted to do the same.
Org and Gerald, German mountain runners, had just finished Kilimanjaro in 12 hours, were both 50. We woke up early, ate and then sprinted up the supposedly 3 hour long hike in one hour and twenty-nine minutes. The saddle wasnt enough and being the competitive fellow I am, I raced them to the top of Little Meru (the second highest peak on the mountain). After that we hiked the trail to the summit. The group slept.
Stephanie and I played cards with the Canadians we met and then retired. Everyone except for the Germans and I left at 1am to summit. We left at 4:30.
After the first km we lost out ranger in the darkness. We were running jogging to the top. My breath reflected in the light of my head lamp when we ran along the ridge. The ridge of Meru is steep. Either side would easily claim your life if your not careful. We saw the lights from the groups above. Closer and closer they grew until we passed them and summited. The air was thin but crisp. We had entered a new world. One where the grass is clouds and the only two things are Meru, Kilimanjaro, and the blue ski above. I cant describe the sunrise in words.
We ran down in 1 hour. Caught the cook off guard and had to wait for breakfast. Celebration was in order. We ate, drank, and had a joyous time. We made it to the first hut before it was dinner and fell asleep. I was the only American on the mountain. Me and the Germans did it fastest and in my book I represented the USA well.
We hiked out to the sight of water buffalo and giraffes. Breathing the last air of Meru. And saying our good byes.
- Chad
Org and Gerald, German mountain runners, had just finished Kilimanjaro in 12 hours, were both 50. We woke up early, ate and then sprinted up the supposedly 3 hour long hike in one hour and twenty-nine minutes. The saddle wasnt enough and being the competitive fellow I am, I raced them to the top of Little Meru (the second highest peak on the mountain). After that we hiked the trail to the summit. The group slept.
Stephanie and I played cards with the Canadians we met and then retired. Everyone except for the Germans and I left at 1am to summit. We left at 4:30.
After the first km we lost out ranger in the darkness. We were running jogging to the top. My breath reflected in the light of my head lamp when we ran along the ridge. The ridge of Meru is steep. Either side would easily claim your life if your not careful. We saw the lights from the groups above. Closer and closer they grew until we passed them and summited. The air was thin but crisp. We had entered a new world. One where the grass is clouds and the only two things are Meru, Kilimanjaro, and the blue ski above. I cant describe the sunrise in words.
We ran down in 1 hour. Caught the cook off guard and had to wait for breakfast. Celebration was in order. We ate, drank, and had a joyous time. We made it to the first hut before it was dinner and fell asleep. I was the only American on the mountain. Me and the Germans did it fastest and in my book I represented the USA well.
We hiked out to the sight of water buffalo and giraffes. Breathing the last air of Meru. And saying our good byes.
- Chad
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